As a chef, I know that the true cuisine of a city is never confined within four walls but is found on the street, at a stall, standing up with a napkin in hand. Napoli understands that like no other city.

1. Antica Pizza Fritta da Zia Esterina Sorbillo — At Piazza Trieste e Trento, this cozy stall from the Sorbillo family stands. Fried dough, fresh filling, a few euros — and eating it standing up while half the city walks by. That's Napoli at its best.

2. Antica Pizzeria Port'Alba — This is the oldest pizzeria in the world, founded in 1738 as a street stall for students and workers. Ordering a margherita here feels like eating a piece of history. The menu has over a hundred pizzas, but keep it classic.

3. Sfogliatelle Attanasio — Close to the station, open from six in the morning: this is where you go for the best sfogliatella in the city. Take a number, wait patiently, and then bite through those thousand crispy layers. The ricotta version is a revelation.

4. Limonè — A small limoncello distillery hidden in Piazza San Gaetano. Mario lets you taste everything: from classic limoncello to an apple variation that you won't find anywhere else, and tells the whole story along the way. Take a bottle home, that's the best souvenir you can find.

Forget the restaurants on the tourist route. The places where real Neapolitans go are smaller, louder, and a lot tastier.

1. Trattoria da Nennella — This trattoria is an experience in itself. Fixed menu of €13 or €17, tables full of locals, waiters dancing on the tables between courses. It's noisy, chaotic, and absolutely delicious. Tip: reserve, as they are always full.

2. Pizzeria Nennella — Not to be confused with the trattoria: this is a separate, quieter pizzeria in the Chiaia district. No menu thrown in your face, no singing staff, just excellent pizza for a few euros, loved by the neighborhood.

3. Trattoria da Mammarella — On the famous Via dei Tribunali, but far enough from the hustle and bustle to feel truly local. The pasta e fagioli and the parmigiana are legendary here. Eat here like a Neapolitan on a Wednesday afternoon.

4. Januarius — A small, hidden gem near the Duomo. The spaghetti with pistachio pesto and tuna is one of those dishes you dream about long after. Small, personal, and incredibly tasty.

From a cozy aperitivo to a table full of treats: these favorites bring that piece of Italian lifestyle home.

Coffee in Naples is not a drink: it's a ritual. You stand at the bar, pay one euro, drink in three sips, and leave. No cappuccino after noon, no exceptions.

1. Gran Caffè Gambrinus — The most beautiful coffee house in Naples, next to the Royal Palace. The hall is lavishly decorated, the espresso is perfect, and the sfogliatella at breakfast is a religious experience. Just put this on your list if you haven't been there yet.

2. Caffè Mexico — This is where real Neapolitans drink their morning coffee. Choice between with or without sugar, always a hot cup, and always for a pittance. Here you stand next to the bus driver, the baker, and the lawyer, all for the same espresso.

3. Diaz Microtorrefazione — For those who love specialty coffee: this is the only specialty coffee bar in the historic center. They roast themselves, the atmosphere is intimate, and the Torta della Nonna is irresistible. A breath of fresh air if you want to slow down for a bit.

Luca Fabozzi, our own true pizzaiolo from Napoli, showed us the way. These are the three places he visits when he is home.

1. Gino e Toto Sorbillo — The line is long, the margherita is phenomenal. The Sorbillo family has been making pizza for generations on Via dei Tribunali, and you can taste that in every bite: airy dough, San Marzano tomatoes, creamy fior di latte. Luca recommends the cosacca — tomato, parmigiano, basil. Simple but delicious.

2. Concettina ai Tre Santi — In the colorful Rione Sanità, this Michelin-recognized pizzeria has been around for over 70 years. Ciro Oliva combines tradition with surprising toppings that you won't find anywhere else. The seven-course tasting menu is an experience in itself.

3. Pizzeria da Attilio — Hidden next to the Pignasecca market, in the family since 1938. The Sole nel Piatto, a star-shaped pizza with ricotta in the points, is an iconic dish that you won't find anywhere else. Highly recommended for those looking for something a little different.

Napoli has more to offer than pizza and street food. If you want to sit down for a real gastronomic experience, here are two addresses that are more than worth it.

1. Palazzo Petrucci — In Posillipo, with a breathtaking view of the Bay of Napoli. This restaurant combines Campanian ingredients with modern cooking techniques in a way that truly surprises you. The blind tasting menu where the chef chooses everything for you is a must for adventurous eaters.

2. Januarius — Yes, this was already among the local favorites — but it really deserves a second mention. The cuisine here exceeds the price: fresh pasta, excellent daily specials, and service that truly takes its time. Small room, big impression.

3. Il Ristorante Alain Ducasse Napoli — In Hotel Romeo, close to the port. The marriage between French haute cuisine and Neapolitan flavors is surprisingly successful here. For a special occasion or if you really want to treat yourself.

After all that eating, you deserve a moment for yourself. Naples has a beautiful shopping street and a few delightful spas that are perfect for relaxing.

1. Via Chiaia — The most beautiful shopping street in Naples: no chain stores, but local boutiques, Italian fashion brands, and authentic workshops. Stroll here at your leisure, look in windows, and let yourself be tempted.

2. Tramontano — A family workshop that has been making handmade leather bags since 1865. Classic Italian craftsmanship, customizable, and of a quality you can feel immediately. A Tramontano bag is the most beautiful souvenir you take home.

3. Beauty Queen Spa — On the chic Piazza dei Martiri: a small but excellent spa for a massage or treatment. Friendly staff, pleasant atmosphere, and exactly what you need after a day of walking around the city.

4. Stufe di Nerone — Just outside Naples, in Bacoli: thermal baths carved into volcanic rock. Locals have known for centuries that this is the best way to relax. Take the green clay for your skin... that's the secret weapon of the Neapolitans.